Paris in 5 Days

Travel Blog by J
October 2011



My first trip to Paris years ago was with a group tour.  We only stayed for 3 days and did an overnight stay in Lourdes.  As in most group tours, time wasn't ours so I didn't get to see the Louvre at all. So this time, when planning for an independent trip to Europe again, I made sure to allot more time in this City of Lights.   I know there is a lot more to see in Paris but  5 days is just fine to visit all the major ones.

The Parisian subway is efficient and well-connected.  We bought a one-day unlimited metro pass for 9,30 euros for the days that we would be using the metro a lot.  Good value for money as a single journey costs 1,70 euros.  The Metro also sells a pack of 10 journeys which costs 12,50 euros.  This one was particularly useful for our group of five (1 return ticket for each of us), when we just wanted to go to one place and then go back to our hotel.

Taxis are expensive but consider this option only if you're getting into the city with big suitcases.  Some metro stations do not have an escalator.  The average taxi fare is 50 euros (for 3 people).

So here's what we covered in our 5 days...

Day 01 - Arrive Paris
                                                                                                                                                       
We arrived in our Montmartre hotel in the afternoon.  As soon as we got settled in, we took the metro from Anvers station to Charles de Gaulle Etoile to see the Arc de Triomphe.  This majestic landmark is a proud memorial for the soldiers who fought in the Napoleonic War.  Etched on its walls are the names of the generals and France's victories.

Down the road from the Arc de Triomphe is Paris' most famous street, Champs Elysees.  Enough has been said about this avenue of signature shops, fancy restaurants and high-end hotels.  If you're looking to go shopping in Paris, this is the place to go.  The average cost of a 5-star hotel night here is 950 euros!

It's also nice to see the Eiffel Tower at night because it is all lit up.  From the Trocadero gardens, you can see Eiffel Tower in its full view.  The Eiffel Tower lights up every day, every hour from sunset to about 1:00 am.  It was truly a magical sight :)

The Eiffel Tower at night from the Trocadero Gardens



Day 02

From our hotel, we walked to a nearby public park called Parc Monceau, which has play areas for children and a running path.  There was also an art exhibit in the garden.



We decided to visit the Louvre after lunch as many bloggers have suggested is the best time to go.  True enough, the queue was very manageable and we were through the Pyramid entrance in minutes.  The basic admission  fee to the Louvre is 10 euros.  We spent about 3 hours in the museum, just picking out the collections we'd like to see:  the Sculpture Garden, the Egyptian Antiquities,  The Greek and Roman Antiquities, French and Italian Paintings, and the Napoleon III Apartments.

The modern and old in a single frame.
The entrance to the museum is through the glass pyramid.


Of course, the Louvre's most famous resident is the Mona Lisa:

Manly flock to see the Mona Lisa.

Glad to have been able to Mona Lisa this close.




Inside the Louvre is Cafe Angelina, where we had lunch.  It's essentially a tea salon but it serves breakfast, lunch and dessert items too.  Their profile says that they were once a favorite of Coco Chanel and Audrey Hepburn.

If you are a fan of chocolate, you must try their signature African hot chocolate served with cream separate.  It is so velvety rich!  Definitely a must try!

Cafe Angelina's signature hot chocolate



We also got their signature Mont Blanc pastry.  The food attendant, probably amused by our "ooohs" and "aaahs" over these two yummy items, gave us a 3rd Mont Blanc pastry ---  for free :)

Cafe Angelina's signature pastry: The Mont Blanc
Meringue, sweet whipped cream, chestnut puree vermicelles  


Cafe Angelina's  location is perfect as its balcony overlooks the Pyramid and the Tuileries garden.  You can also see Eiffel Tower from a distance.



Later that day, we followed a self-guided walking tour which took us to Notre Dame Cathedral.  This catholic church is a fine example of Gothic architecture.  It is famous for its flying buttresses, gargoyles and chimeras on its roof, and its stained glass windows.  We went here during the day and came back at night when it was illuminated and less crowded.  Entrance to the cathedral is free.


Notre Dame at night

We crossed the Pont Neuf the oldest bridge in Paris (built in 1578).  This bridge connects the left and right banks of the River Seine by passing over the Ile de la Cite.

Pont Neuf


The Square du Vert Galant,  is located behind and below the statue of Henry IV along the Pont Neuf.  Unfortunately, the gate was closed already that evening.  Too bad because it is said to be the best vantage point for the the Louvre and Pont Neuf.

Square du Vert Galant, taken from the Pont Neuf

Just across the Pont Neuf is the Place Dauphine.  The square is surrounded by old buildings made of brick with limestone;  everything was illuminated by the  warm yellow glow of the lamp posts.


Place Dauphine

Last stop for the day was Place de la Concorde, also one of the major squares in Paris.  Here, you can capture 3 major landmarks all in one frame:  an Egyptian obelisk, the Fountain of River Commerce and Navigation, and the Eiffel Tower.

Place de la Concorde

Day 03

We started the day exploring Montmartre.  See related post here.

It was then time to shop in Galeries Lafayette.  More than the stores, I liked its dome and balconies more.  They were pretty, just like a music box :)

     



The last order of the day was the ascent to the Eiffel Tower.  As expected, there were long queues for the tickets and the elevator.  Repeated announcements were made that there was a 45-minute waiting time on the second level before one could reach the top.  Because of this, we decided to just go up to the second level.  The ticket costs 8,20 euros.  There is also an option of taking the stairs to go up the second floor--- one that I did not even care to consider! Our timing was just right as it was close to dusk and we were just in time for when the tower sparkled!



view from the Eiffel Tower


Day 04

After some souvenir shopping in Montmartre, we took the RER train to Chateau de Versailles.   Getting to Versailles is easy:  just take the RER C (regional train, not the metro) to Versailles Rive Gauche Station.  Our metro ticket + RER C ticket cost 5,12 euros.  Versailles is about 30 minutes away by train from Paris.

Admission fee to the Chateau + Gardens + Marie Antoinette's Estate is 25 euros.  For the Chateau only, it's 15 euros; Gardens only, 7 euros.  I would suggest buying the first option so you get the total Versailles experience.

Because of the sheer size of the Chateau and gardens, it is necessary to allow at least half a day for this.  A whole day is even better.  We spent about 4 hours here, visiting the palace apartments, exploring the vast garden and continuing on to Marie Antoinette's Petit Trianon.  It's nice to imagine how the kings and queens of the past have walked on the same steps, and sat on the same marble benches, and looked out of the same windows to the Grand Canal.  Just be prepared to walk though.  This may well be the longest garden walk of all time!

Chateau de Versailles


Apollo Ornamental Lake


One of the many gardens

The Petit Trianon

Day 05
Au revoir, Paris!  Next stop - Barcelona!



Some Paris Tips:

* Buy an unlimited metro pass for 1 day for 9,30 euros.  It's good value for money especially if you'll be using the metro a lot.


* Try one of the many corner boulangerie (bakery).  They sell a wide variety of savory and sweet pastries. A regular baguette with ham, lettuce and cheese costs about 3,50 euros.  A croissant costs under 2 euros.  


*  And because this is France, try the French Fries.  Haha :)  They all taste the same whichever country you may be.  McDonald's Paris sells them for 2,20 euros.


* It is a must to taste French macarons.  Try Laduree.


* A regular meal in a not-so-fancy restaurant costs between 20-30 euros.  A fastfood meal (burger, fries and soda) costs about 7 euros.


* Try going to the Louvre after lunch when the queue is likely to be shorter.


* Catch the Eiffel Tower at night.  The Eiffel is pretty both in the day and evening when it is all lit up.  Remember that the Eiffel twinkles on the hour after sunset for 10 minutes. 


* If your party is more than 3, consider getting a big taxi from the airport (about 60 euros from Charles de Gaulle Airport to the city center).  A standard taxi would cost about 50 euros for the same distance.  Remember to ask the driver to put the meter on.


* In Sacre Coeur, do not entertain people offering to make a "friendship" bracelet on your wrist.  A fellow traveler cautioned us that these people work in tandem.  While one is making the bracelet around your wrist, the other is busy eyeing your bag.
  
* If you spend a minimum of 175 euros in the same store on the same day on merchandise where tax was charged, those purchases are eligible for tax refund.  Get the Retail Export Form before you leave the store.  Get the documents stamped before you leave the EU (European Union).  You will need to present your passport, ticket, forms and receipts.  The Customs official may ask to see the merchandise so do not check them in!



* All photos here are Skycab Travel's own.
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A Gelato Expedition in Rome

Travel Blog By J
October 2011


Rome is probably one of the most popular walking cities in the world.  Every turn leads to a fountain, a monument, an obelisk or a historical ruin.  And just as many these important structures are, so are the Gelaterias!  You can find them everywhere, enticing tourists like me to come in and say hello to all of those yummy flavors on display :)

We went out of our way to see these gelaterias, following the reviews and recommendations we checked online.  Here are the ones we tasted and liked :)



IL GELATO DI SAN CRISPINO
Rome Centro-Storico - Fontana Di Trevi
Via della Panatteria 42
(near the Trevi Fountain)

Mentioned in Elizabeth Gilbert's "Eat, Pray, Love," this little gelateria is a local favorite.  A lot of Tripadvisor reviews say that this is the best in Rome so I was quite surprised to see that there was no queue.  Maybe because we came in the evening?  I don't know, but I'm glad we tried it.

The first thing I noticed was that the gelato were not openly displayed.  The flavors were labelled but the gelato tins all had their lids on, so this made choosing what to get doubly hard.  I guess they do this to preserve the quality and texture of the gelato.

I asked the food server what their best seller is and he said it's Honey or the Il Gelato di San Crispino. Their website says that is made of honey collected from Sardinia.  The gelato is light and delicate and I could really taste the honey, without it being overly sweet.

San Crispino's Honey gelato


We also tried the Valrohna chocolate and the pistachio (probably the best pistachio we've tasted from among the gelato places we went to).

A cup costs 3 euros and you can choose up to 2 flavors.  I must add that they don't serve their gelato in a cone, claiming the cone interferes with the taste of the gelato.

Entrance to San Crispino






FIOR DI LUNA
Via della Lungaretta, 96  (in Trastevere)

Our landlady recommended that we have dinner in Trastevere.  This small medieval town, located just across the Tiber River, is now made popular by the pubs and restaurants that line its narrow cobbled streets. It's nice to walk here, a little less chaotic than Centro-Storico.

Fior Di Luna can be found in the center of Trastevere.  They offer sugar-free gelato, sorbets, frozen yogurt and chocolate.  They only use fruits in season.  I especially liked their "uva" or grape (very refreshing!).  I also tried their lemon (very citrusy!) and their chocolate-orange flavors.  They also have a chocolate-chili flavor, which gives a slight burn in your throat :)

A cup costs 2.20 euros and you can choose 3 flavors in a cup or cone.






GIOLITTI
Via Uffici del Vicario 40 (close to the Pantheon)

This is my favorite!  The big number of patrons is a testament to how good the gelato is here.  So many choices:  lots of flavors and containers--  in a cup, a regular cone, a chocolate-dipped cone, with extra whipped cream on top?  Their servings are generous so I think it's good value for the buck (err, euro!).  No wonder this is the favorite gelateria of Pope John Paul II  (he likes the chestnut flavor) and the Obama kids.

This masterful creation costs 3.50 Euros:

Dark Chocolate, Pistachio and Raspberry in a chocolate-dipped cone

with whipped cream on top of 3 scoops!








And when in Florence, please try:

GROM
Via del Campanile angola via delle Oche, Florence

Also a popular gelato chain.  Definitely a must-try in Florence. I have never had Pear ice cream before and theirs is so delicious.  Their Nougat is also yummy.

A medium cone with 3 flavors costs 3.50 Euros.



Grom in Florence


We also went to see FASSI but it was still closed when we got there.  We thought  we could squeeze in a last gelato stop before we head to the airport.  This is supposed to be the oldest gelateria in Rome.  Fassi -- we will be back for you!

So when in Rome, don't let all the sights consume your time.  Have a break and try all the gelato that you can.  It's fun and you just might find your favorite :)

BUON APPETITO!





* All pictures are Skycab's own.

A Walk in Montmartre

Travel Blog By J
October 2011





View of Sacre Coeur from our hotel room 
When traveling on your own, it is always best to have a good balance of location + price.  Hotels in the Champs Elysees, Eiffel Tower and Louvre area are, to be expected, very expensive.  A good alternative is to stay in Montmartre.  It is a little further out of the center but still accessible by the Parisian subway. The area itself is lively, reminiscent of its glorious past being once the principal artistic center of Paris.  Our hotel, Avenir Hotel Montmartre, is located seconds away from the Anvers metro station, which is just a few stops from Charles de Gaulle Etoile (the stop  you need to get to Champs Elysees and Arc de Triomphe).




Montmartre is situated on a hill so expect a lot of uphill walking.  We did a self-guided walking tour of the area and these are the places of interest:

Montmartre's most famous attraction is the Basilica of the Sacred Heart or Sacre Coeur.  You can't miss this big-domed white Catholic church  perched on top of a hill.  Its position is fantastic, offering visitors  a panoramic view of the city.  We had the option of taking the 225 steps uphill or ride the funicular to get to the Basilica (costs 1.70 Euros per way).  We decided that we're young and healthy enough to go up  the hard way (felt like a pilgrimage)!  Some benches are placed on every landing so one can rest and look out to the city below.


Sacre Coeur


city view from Sacre Coeur


At the top of the steps are musicians and living statues (there are a lot all over Europe!), entertaining passersby.


Caesar in Paris!


Facing Sacre Coeur, take the road immediately to its left and it will lead you to this square surrounded by little shops and sidewalk cafes.  This place is Place du Terte. Many artists set up their easels here and can make portraits for willing tourists in 10-15 minutes.  A portrait would set you back around 60 Euros.  The artworks displayed are varied, most of them are painted scenes of Paris.  I didn't buy anything but was just glad to soak in the vibe of this place.


Place du Tertre 


Have yourself drawn by a French artist!



More walking led us to the apartment where a notable artist once lived.  Vincent Van Gogh and his brother Theo once occupied the third floor of the apartment at  #54 Rue Lepic.  In Paris, he painted portraits, scenes in Montmartre and views of Le Moulin de la Galette (which we also visited but was unfortunately closed that day).

54 Rue Lepic, where Vincent Van Gogh
lived between 1886-1888


Another crowd-drawer here is the Moulin Rouge.  This cabaret, made more famous by the Nicole Kidman starrer of the same name, is the birthplace of the can-can dance.  Shows are performed nightly with tickets starting from 90 Euros. It's hard to miss this red building with a windmill on top Moulin Rouge, by the way, means "Red Mill."


The Moulin Rouge


We took our time strolling along the quiet cobbled pathways, stopping in one of the many shops and macaron stores, and just admiring the picturesque streets and buildings that make up in this district.  We saw a lot of tourists, guide books and maps in hand, who seemed to be making their own walking tour as well.

Montmartre is a definite must-visit while in Paris.  Explore this district when you've done all of the big must-sees.


Perfect for leisurely walks.



Take a break and go into one of the specialty macaron shops.
These ones are by Christophe Roussel.




* All photos are Skycab's own.

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